Our next meeting will be held on Monday 9th April, upstairs at the Dominion Bar, 234 Dominion Road, Mt Eden at 7:30 pm (socialise from 7 pm). Our speaker this month will be Jane Morris from Mt Cook. She will be speaking about the Classic Climb in the Mount Cook National Park.
Grab a drink or even dinner as you head in to hear about some fantastic routes! We look forward to seeing you there.
A gold coin donation is appreciated from non club members.
Marcus has spent a lifetime exploring New Zealand's underground wilderness and is at the forefront of exploration in New Zealand's longest cave system - Bulmer Cavern. Hear his tales at our next club night.
Gold coin donation from non-members appreciated
At our Club Meeting this December, Callan Cooper and Meghan Walker share their story about a 3 month climbing and van-dwelling road trip across the West Coast of North America. They started in the snowy peaks of British Columbia's Bugboos and ended with the granite monoliths of Yosemite. Come along to learn more.
Gold coin donation from non-members appreciated.
The Auckland Section of the NZAC are excited to announce we will be hosting Reel Rock 12 at 7pm on November 28th at Auckland University.
This November, get ready for climbing’s greatest stories, stars, and sends. REEL ROCK 12 premieres four new short films that will deliver heart-thumping action, big laughs, and pure inspiration. Featuring Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb 5.15; Brad Gobright, an up-and-coming free soloist with a donut addiction; the return of Chris Sharma to the deep water soloing stage, and more.
Tickets are $15 for NZAC and AURAC members and $20 for non members. Cash on the door only. Visit the Reel Rock website for more info.
November club night is a movie takeover.
"After attempting but failing to summit Meru in 2008, Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk return to the mountain in order to conquer its peak – a 4,000 foot wall known as the "Shark's Fin". As they climb, the men also document their ascent."
View the trailer:
Penny Webster is an amateur mountaineer who recently completed ascents of all New Zealand’s 3000m mountains. She is one of a dozen kiwis who have achieved the 3000m peak challenge since its conception in the early 1950’s.
Penny will be speaking about her life as mountaineer with a focus on the climbs from Empress Hut in 2016, and a historical perspective on other climbers who have embarked on climbing all New Zealand’s highest mountains.
Anthony Powell has just spent his tenth winter over in Antarctica.
He worked for many years as a telecommunications engineer before becoming a full-time filmmaker and photographer. He had to design and build a lot of his own camera equipment to withstand the harsh conditions of the deep Antarctic winters. He made the international award-winning film "Antarctica: A Year on Ice" and has contributed footage to numerous films, TV shows, and exhibitions. These include National Geographic, Discovery, US Natural History Museum, and the Emmy Award winning BBC series Frozen Planet.
Anthony will talk about his experiences living in Antarctica, how the bases have evolved over time, and his own personal journey to becoming a full-time filmmaker
Henry will speak to the Auckland section of the NZAC on current snow safety and avalanche awareness techniques.
Henry has been managing safety in the outdoor environment for over 20 years. Winters have involved working as a snow safety officer for Whakapapa Ski Area and patrol supervisor. Henry teaches a variety of emergency management courses from first aid to prehospital emergency care. Henry is Avalanche Stage 2 qualified and he directs the Avalanche Stage 1 courses in the North Island.
Please join us for some life saving information.
100 days, about 1000 kms, about 50,000 metres of elevation - Allan Brent
I was born and raised in Dunedin and spent all of my childhood holidays in Wanaka or across Otago. In time this took me into the mountains of the Matukituki where my dad and uncle taught me to climb in the Alpine the old way: through a long apprenticeship building in difficulty and complexity.
I attended Otago University where I got into the hills a lot, but not enough. On finishing university, I shifted to Auckland and lived in Mount Eden. I hit the Quarry hard and learned to lead some hard trad, thanks to some wonderful members of the NZAC Auckland Section. That was 2012/2013. In the years since then, my work as a solicitor has seen me move to Wellington for a further two years, where seeing my home of the South Island every day was eventually too much. I moved to Christchurch in 2015 and get out regularly.
We decided to give a South Island Traverse a go at new year 2015/2016, and spent 2016 planning it. From June to departure in November the trip required almost full-time dedication outside of work, either in research, food preparation or training.
The trip was just over 100 days, about 1000 kms, about 50,000 metres of height gain and loss, and surprisingly, only a few kilograms lost. The weather was rubbish, but made the trip no less special.
Inspired by the adventures of Sir Edmund Hillary on Mt Everest and in the Antarctic, Peter has been climbing on rock and in the mountains for over 40 years. He has achieved a number of first ascents in the Himalaya and in the New Zealand Alps. In recent years Peter has summited both Mt Everest and Mt Denali, and he continues to climb professionally and personally.
Peter is a registered Pharmacist but currently works as a Health and Safety Auditor for the NZ Adventure Activity industry as well as instructing and guiding in both rock and alpine disciplines. He is a past President and long serving member of the New Zealand Alpine Club. He currently coordinates the NZAC climbing and instruction programmes.
Peter has a passion for people, the outdoors, and the mountains in particular, and loves to introduce others to the challenges of mountaineering by sharing his enthusiasm, knowledge and skills.
A conversation with Sarah Hay - current national champion in both lead climbing and bouldering - April Meeting
Sarah Hay is a rock climber from the North Island. She is the current national champion in both lead climbing and bouldering and has experienced success internationally placing second in the 2016 Australian Bouldering championships. Sarah can be found regularly climbing at crags throughout NZ and coaches some of Auckland's young climbing athletes. She sits on the NZAC Climbing Committee, the Auckland Sport Climbing Club, Climbing New Zealand committee and represents New Zealand on the Oceania Climbing Council.
Sarah is supported by Rab Equipment, Outfitters Newmarket, Lowe Alpine and Friction Labs climbing chalk.
7:30 PM at the Dominion
If you have ever seen a documentary on Antarctica you have no doubt wondered: how do I get there? Since returning in February to New Zealand from a climbing trip to the Antarctic Peninsula I have been wondering: how do I get back?
The endlessly glaciated peaks and valleys, the inky ocean teeming with wildlife, these are what make the Antarctic Peninsula a climbing destination like no other. I was fortunate enough to have been selected as a member of the New Zealand Antarctic Heritage Trust's Inspiring Explorers Team in 2017. At the March meeting I'll be talking about our ascent of Mt Scott and the diverse possibilities for adventure presented by the Antarctic Peninsula
Rose grew up listening to (tall) tales of past tramping exploits in the fiordland area from her parents and their Otago tramping and mountaineering club friends. Upon heading to Christchurch, however, she lost her way among the boulder mats and 2m problems of Castle Hill. Fortunately, this interest in climbing quickly turned to trad, and a few transalpine tramping trips soon lead her to mountaineering. She prefers technical climbing and has been seeking out long technical alpine routes wherever she can for the last several years
Although currently based in the UK, Rose began her mountaineering career with snow and alpine rock ascents around Arthurs Pass (Rolleston and Mt Temple), South Canterbury (Cloudy peak), Aoraki Region (The Nuns Veil), Aspiring Region (NW Ridge of Mt Aspiring), before a quick introduction to mixed and ice climbing at the 2013 Darrens Winter Meet. She then headed north for a three to four year stint in the U.K. where she has taken advantage of the proximity of Scotland and the European Alps. Scotland has provided her with plenty of alpine ice and mixed climbed with difficulties through Scottish VI/VII 6/7, while the European Alps have been her introduction to long (1000+vm) multi-day technical alpine rock and mixed routes climbed over 1 to 3 day periods in winter and summer in the TD+ to ED range.
In 2015 a winter trip to Canada saw her round out her winter climbing experience with three weeks of ice climbing up to WI5/WI5+ in and around the ice field parkways. In 2016 Rose participated in the New Zealand Alpine Team Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca Range in Peru. Here she was finally able to put her experiences from NZ, Canada, Scotland and the European Alps together on virgin ground as part of the first ascent team of the West Ridge of Taulliraju. The ascent was made over four days in light alpine style and include difficulties up to 5.8, AI5 and M4.
Come along to hear about three New Zealanders having a wild adventure on the tiny, wacky, wonderful Faroe Islands. See photos and video from the preparation and ascent of a new, challenging climb straight out of the sea.
7:30pm Monday 14 November 2016 'The Dominion Bar'
234 Dominion Road, Mt Eden.
PLEASE NOTE THIS IS A TUESDAY. The Dominion is closed on the Monday.
What to eat in the hills and in the city to maximise alpine climbing performance.
Cam is a transplanted Canadian and a member of the Auckland section. He holds a PhD in exercise physiology and is currently a research fellow working in nutrition at the University of Auckland.
He will review basic sports nutrition for endurance athletes and then look at how to apply these principles to an alpine environment. Topics will include the carbohydrates vs fat to fuel long days and protein how much, when and why. Cam will also discuss some of mountain food available in NZ and their pros and cons.
Come join Cam for a discussion of what to eat in the hills, remember to bring your nutrition and training questions.
Come join Penny as she shares with us some of her impressive climbing history along with some insights into where the alpine club is heading as a result of the recent strategic planning process.
Dr Penny Brothers (NZAC President) was born and grew up in Auckland, New Zealand. Penny has combined an academic career in chemistry at the University of Auckland with a keen interest in the mountains around the world. Climbs in Yosemite include the West Face Of El Capitan, the Direct North West Face of Half Dome, the West Face of Sentinel, and the Leaning Tower. She was a member of the 1980 American and Indian women’s expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya and a member of the summit party of the first ascent of Bhrigupanth (6770 m).
Apart from 2 seasons spent in Fiji and the Antarctic, Alex spent 13 summer seasons between 1958 – 1972 and 1976 climbing in the Southern Alps – mostly in the Mt Cook region. During that time he became the second person to climb all of NZ’s 31 x 3,000m peaks.
In the mid 60’s he joined the Auckland Section’s 1967 Andean Expedition to Peru and made 3 first ascents and 6 second ascents by new routes in the Cordillera Carabaya. This trip was followed by climbs in the USA (Yosemite) and Canada.
Come join Alex as he shares some of New Zealands climbing history with us. A look at the 1960s in New Zealand mountaineering, with an overview of the equipment commonly in use at the time.
Come join us for the Auckland sections 2016 gear swap. We’re aiming to make this an annual event from here onwards, so please show your support to make this a success. Snowcrafters, this is a great opportunity to come along and pick up some quality pre-loved gear to help reduce the cost of getting setup for the coming season.
This will be a fairly informal meeting, there’ll be a few tables setup for people to display gear on, and plenty of space to socialize, have a few drinks and plan a few crazy adventures for the coming season.
Feel free to bring any sort of mountain related gear along, mountaineering, skiing/snowboarding, hiking, etc. Try not to bring any junk though.
Payment to be arranged between traders on the night, there’s an ATM across the road for cash if you need it.
Please add a comment to the event with what you’ll be bringing along for trade/sale if you have time, or what you’re looking to acquire to give people an idea of what will be available (and the help us guesstimate table space!).
There'll be a prize for most trades made on the night, which will be fiercly contested so make sure you brush up on your bartering.
Sellers, please consider donating a portion of your profits to the club to help us import some amazing speakers this year!
All welcome - non members we ask for a small donation.
David Ellis - founder and owner of the specialised outdoor clothing brand Earth Sea Sky will talk about his 35 years experience designing and making outdoor clothing and equipment in New Zealand. His grandfather started the Fairydown brand and supplied Sir Edmund Hillary the sleeping bag he used during the first ascent of Mt Everest. His father joined the business and was the engineer that accompanied Hillary on his tractor trip to the South Pole.
During the evening David a keen outdoor enthusiast will talk about his unique family heritage, remarkable people he has meet, interesting places he has visited, some misunderstandings of functional clothing, the importance of efficient layering systems and how Earth Sea Sky survives in a world of exaggerated marketing claims, huge advertising budgets and discounts - A night of entertainment not to be missed!
Monday 9th May, 7:30pm - The Dominion
All welcome - non members we ask for a small donation.
Date Change: THURSDAY 4th FEBRUARY
The first meeting back for 2016 - and it's a good one!!
Christine Jensen Burke the first Australasian woman to climb K2 will be with us to share her adventures. Having climbed mountains all over the world, in 2013, Chris became one of only a small handful of climbers, female or male, to reach the summit of 4 x 8,000m peaks in a 12 month period when she reached the summit of Lhotse, G1, G2 and Manaslu. She followed these climbs up with another 3 x 8,000m peaks in 2014 - Makalu, K2 and Cho-Oyu. How did she do it?? Be there to find out.
THURSDAY 4th of February 7.30 pm - The Dominion
In its landmark 10th year, Reel Rock is kicking off the 2015 world tour ro over 450 locations around the world. Reel Rock 10 features exclusive premiers of short films by Reel Rock co-founders Sender Films and Big Up productions that tell the stories of the most exciting vertical action from the past year. From big walls to big moves, and featuring athletes Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Alex Honnold, Daniel Woods and a special tribute to the late Dean Potter, this year's tour boasts and eclectic programme that will get you psyched!
In 1988, Lydia became the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen. She made the ascent alone and to date she is the only New Zealander to have made an oxygen-free ascent. Her climb was and still is considered a truly remarkable achievement. She will be with us to share her stories of mountaineering, living life on the edge, and the entertaining people and antics she has encountered along the way.
A talk not to be missed by mountaineering royalty!
Don’t miss the July meeting because it’s a good one!
Tashi and Nungshi Malik will be with us to share their intrepid adventures and their record-breaking achievements. No strangers to adventure, the girls are the World's first siblings and twins to have conquered the seven highest peaks on each continent.
Not being content with having scaled the Seven Summits - they've just completed the Explorers Grand Slam (last degree), reaching the North and South Poles, becoming the first siblings to do so. The girls have proved that “Mountains do not discriminate based on gender - They pose the same physical and mental challenge to men and women. And they punish both equally for their mistakes.”
How did they do it??
Be there to find out! Monday 13th July, 7.30pm – The Dominion.
All welcome - For non club members we ask for a small donation.