Rock Climbing Instruction Weekend 1: "Intro & Leading on Bolts" Nov 2006
Location: Wharepapa South
Organised and lead by Roger Mayhill
Participants: Collin, Andrea, Brian, Greg, Brett, Eleri, Dean, Alice, Johnmen, and Rebecca
Awaiting with anticipation for weeks in advance for the first weekend of this course, I had my bags packed and my car on the road before the infamous Auckland rush hour. Never having made the trip to Wharepapa South before, I had only a small conception of the distance and directions from Auckland. After a few U-turns to stay on course I knew I must have been getting close when the cliffs of Castle Rock appeared in the distance causing the hairs of my neck to rise in excitement. My first lesson of weekend was upon immediate arrival to Bryce’s Café and the startling yet pleasant realisation of how close it was to Auckland. Here was a climber’s playground at what I would consider my ‘doorstep’. In fact, I had arrived so early that I decided to return to the closest township to find food at the hotel bar and restaurant, until local participants in Friday night Karaoke drove me back out in search of sanctuary.
Day 1: After a brief refresher on the basics and some top roping at Castle Rock to warm up, we were ready to go. Fuelled on by abundant sunshine and the supportive cheers of our belayer (as well as the farmer’s cows and turkeys), everyone had built enough confidence to make top rope ascents slinging quickdraws and clipping in on the way for practice. With satisfaction, we called it a successful day with a few of us carpooling to town to purchase beverages and food before meeting the rest back at Bryce’s for dinner. Shortly before arriving back we realised that Greg, who came along to chip-in for food, had the room key leaving the rest of the group waiting the hour or more for our return before they could shower and change. Still, everyone seemed in high enough spirits to wait and reflect the day over drinks (or were they simply amused to learn that I was asked for ID by the cashier half my age!).
Day 2: After a short stroll through the thistle ridden paddock of Sheridan Hills, it was time to do what we came for, a lead climb without the reliance of a top rope belay. Our first stop was Flying Cow Buttress and eager to see what I could do, I volunteered to climb ‘Pani Para Chha’ (17?). In reflection, it took me a long time to complete the 15m, but it was the first time I climbed with purpose, with some thought of hold placements instead of randomness, and most important, without being plagued with FEAR. Equal success stories were shared among the group with climbs of Meteora and Chunderrosa Buttress to conclude another sun drenched day and an adventure filled weekend.
By Dean Conniff
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