 The annual NZAC Mt Taranaki trip, famous for foul weather. But for me it’s worth the risk, as the reward of climbing on this mountain can be some of the best in the North Island. There is ice climbing, rock climbing, and of course the summit via various ridges.
Arriving at Tahurangi Lodge around midday on Saturday morning I met the others who were returning from the summit, via the most popular, North Ridge. They reported good conditions.
After lunch Magnus and I headed for ‘Warwick Castle’ for a spot of rock climbing. Its a mere 20mins from the Lodge. Taking my boots off in the snow and carefully putting my climbing shoes on was a first for me. Having to scoop out snow from the jugs was another first! The rock had great fricton where there was no moss, snow or water. After a few climbs we headed back to the lodge for dinner.
Sunday morning greeted us with clear, still conditions. After breakfast we headed around to the East Ridge, which is according to the guidebook is a 2+ grade ridge. As the four of us headed up the ridge the cloud rolled in reducing vis, but as we slowly gained altitude we left the cloud behind. About 300m below summit of the ‘Shark Tooth’ we roped up and pitched to the top. It was great fun getting into some steeper stuff, and while the rope work slowed us down, it didn’t matter as we had all day, and was great to practice the skills.
 Getting to the top of the Shark Tooth we were met with perfectly still conditions, and a brilliant blue sky. We had lunch, then descended down the North Ridge into the clouds, there we all got lost, and ended up too far to the north and had to walk down until we hit the “Around the Mountain” track then head back around to the Lodge for dinner.
The forecast for Monday wasn’t the best, but again we were greeted with another perfect day. The legs were screaming out for mercy though, so we headed back home. So for all the new snowcrafters, none of whom came! Better see you there next year! It is well worth it!
Trip participants: Anthony Stead, Magnus Hammarsal, Shane Inder, Karl Arndt.
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