Karangahake Gorge - Rock Climbing 2009
In the days before Wharepapa and lines of bolts, Karangahake Gorge was a regular haunt for Auckland climbers. Soaring rock, emerging from the bush, high above the Waitewheta River. It was a place once familiar, where I learned to climb. We would camp by the road, and find our way across the barbed-wired bridge and along the crumbling track to the climbing. I still remember the day I first led Shadowfax, and that gloriously exposed second pitch. And then there was, Fatal Fascination, a new route I did with Tim Goodwin.
Well those were the memories. Twenty-odd years later, things were a little different. I joined Sean, Christa, Blair, Zora and Jan on a trip down to Karangahake Gorge a few weeks back. Sean and Christa are leading a bit of a Gorge renaissance having discovered the ‘old-school’ trad adventures that it offers. The tourist-standard bridges over the river and tracks now make for quick travel up the valley, where the somewhat intimidating but enticing crags still emerge.
We headed up to the Kahn Buttress and the Shield where we all had a stab at Prelude, a two pitch 14. Crickey! How did I ever climb anything here? Even the easy grades are run-out and incredibly committing. 
Often the only pro is a rusty (I’m sure they were just as rusty 20 years ago!) peg. After some more exploration, we headed over to the Skyline Buttress, and followed Sean up the first pitch of the grade 16 Shelob. How can this only be a 16? It was desperate, even on the blunt end of the rope. I left feeling very humbled, but inspired, and determined to return. Shadowfax still beacons. Thanks to Sean and Christa for arranging the trip. Keep it up! - Gerald Lanning